Climbing Mont Blanc from the Trois Monts is a magnificent, long and complete itinerary, exposed in the first part to objective dangers (seracs) but truly unique and exciting. In fact, it allows you to reach the top by touching the peaks of Tacul and Maudit, two other great 4000 of the massif.
This itinerary is reserved for trained mountaineers and with some experience of classic mountaineering.
Day 1
From Chamonix, you go up with the lifts to the Aiguille du Midi and from here in about 1 hour you reach the Cosmiques refuge (3,600m)
Day 2
We start at night and climb the complicated slope of Mont Blanc du Tacul zigzagging between crevasses and seracs. With a traverse, you go under the steep slide of the Col Maudit, to the right of the homonymous peak. Go up carefully (steps at 50 °) and finally head towards the Brenva hill.
A last steep wall (mur de la cote) allows access to the top and shortly to the top.
Difference: in altitude: + 1500m approx
Round trip time: 12-14 hours aproximately
The descent usually takes place for the normal of the Gouter on the opposite side, thus making the complete crossing of the mountain.
Once in the Chamonix valley, return by bus or taxi to the starting point.