The ascent to the Ortles remains a goal coveted by many mountaineers and is a demanding and satisfying summit. The summit can also be reached on other more demanding ridge routes and on the famous north face.
Meeting at the start of the chairlift of the Bear that allows you to get to an altitude of 2250 meters and from here walk to the refuge Tabaretta 2556 meters reaching the Passo dell'Orso at 2870 meters and in a short time to the Refuge Payer 3020 meters. Climbing the north wall, the glaciers take us to a high mountain environment looking severe and fascinating.
We will rest for the night and early in the morning we will leave for our destination
Before dawn, we will be on our way to the famous "Wandln" rocks, technically the most difficult part of the entire ascent.
We will always continue by rope, assisted by the guide who will lead you with a wise hand along the next ridge that. With due attention, we will reach the Buca dell'Orso (here it is fashionable) and then the hump "Tschierfegg" (very steep 40°) where there is the bivouac Lombardi. From the gentler slopes of the upper glacier, we can reach the summit without any particular difficulty.
After a short stop we will return to the uphill route with a small variant under the Lombardi bivouac and then down to the valley.